care and maintenance comforters · duvets · 9 min read

how to wash a comforter at home without ruining it

With a fibre filling, washing at home is perfectly doable, and much simpler than it tends to seem. The key lies in your washing machine's capacity, the right programme and, above all, the drying.

White quilted happyfriday duvet on a wooden bed with beige pillows in natural light a well-cared-for duvet lasts longer

Knowing how to wash a comforter at home helps keep it clean and in good condition for longer. With fibre fillings, the process is usually simple, as long as you follow a few basic washing, drying and care guidelines so it keeps its shape and loft properly.

In this guide we go over what washing machine capacity you need, which programme and temperature to use, how to dry it so the filling regains its loft and how often it's a good idea to wash it. We also distinguish between the printed comforter and the duvet, because they're two different products and their care isn't identical.

key points

what you'll take away from this

  • 1What washing machine capacity you need for the size of your comforter.
  • 2The right programme and temperature, and why fabric softener is ruled out.
  • 3How to dry it so the filling regains its full loft.
  • 4The mistakes that make the fibre clump and how often it's best to wash it.
preliminary checks

before you start: two things worth checking

Most problems when washing a comforter in the washing machine don't come from the programme you chose, but from starting without checking two basic things.

1 · What the filling is made of

This is the decisive check. Fibre fillings (like ours, made of siliconised hollow fibre) can be washed at home without any problem. Natural down, on the other hand, can't: the risk lies in the drying, because if any moisture stays inside, it clumps and loses its warmth permanently. If your comforter is filled with down, the sensible thing is to have it professionally cleaned. If you're unsure about the differences between the two materials, we go over them in detail in our comparison of down versus synthetic fibre.

2 · Whether it fits in your washing machine

This is the point that's most often overlooked. The comforter doesn't just have to fit in the drum: it needs room to move. If it's squashed in, the water and detergent can't circulate, the rinse is incomplete and soap residue is left behind that stiffens the fibre. As a guide:

recommended washing machine capacity by size
Duvet or comforter size Minimum capacity
Up to 150 × 220 (80/90 bed) 7 kg
180 × 220 to 220 × 220 (105 to 135/140 bed) 8 kg
240 × 220 and larger (150 bed and above) 9–10 kg

If your washing machine isn't big enough, there's a practical alternative before turning to the dry cleaner's: self-service launderettes have large-capacity machines and can usually handle the whole wash in one go.

And a useful tip if you have the all-seasons duvet: its two pieces are washed separately and each one is considerably thinner, so they fit easily in a standard domestic washing machine.

the process

washing step by step

With the two checks done, the process itself is quick. These are the four steps and the specific settings.

1

Check it and treat any stains

Before putting it in, check the seams and fastenings. If there's a specific stain, apply a little neutral soap directly to the area and leave it for a few minutes.

2

Put it in the drum

Spread it evenly, without rolling it up or squashing it. The comforter should be the only item in the load so it has enough room.

3

Programme and temperature

A delicate or dedicated duvet programme, at a maximum of 30 ºC. Liquid detergent in a moderate dose and a low spin, between 400 and 600 rpm.

4

Add an extra rinse

If your washing machine allows it, set a second rinse. It's the most effective way to make sure no detergent residue is left inside the filling.

Why 30 ºC and no higher

A moderate temperature cleans just as well for a household textile and protects two things: the structure of the hollow fibre, which can lose some of its recovery at high temperatures, and the pigments of the print, in the case of the comforter. If you want a deeper clean (for example, after a bout of allergies or an illness), it's better to wash at 30 ºC and then dry it fully in the sun than to push it to 60 ºC.

Liquid detergent, and nothing else

Liquid detergent dissolves completely and leaves no residue between the fibres, unlike powder, which tends to get trapped in bulky items. A moderate dose is enough: too much soap is one of the most common reasons a duvet comes out of the wash stiff.

Hands putting a white quilted happyfriday duvet into the drum of a washing machine
Room to move. If the duvet is squashed in the drum, the water can't circulate and the rinse is incomplete.
the decisive stage

drying: where the filling is won or lost

If there's one stage worth paying attention to, it's this one. A comforter that's washed well but dried badly ends up with the filling bunched in the corners, and that loss of loft is hard to reverse. The aim of drying isn't just to remove the moisture: it's for the fibre to regain the air it had before it got wet.

Dry it completely

Any moisture left inside encourages odours and mould. Make sure it's completely dry before putting it away.

Shake it often

Every so often, shake it out and redistribute the filling with your hands so it regains its loft.

Shade and air

Laid out flat and in the shade. Prolonged direct sun fades the colours of the print.

Air drying: the recommended option

Hang it laid out flat, on a large airer or across two parallel lines, never hung from a single point: the weight of the water stretches the seams and drags the filling downwards. Choose a well-ventilated, shady spot and shake it every few hours. Depending on the weight and the humidity, drying completely can take one to two days, so it's best to pick a dry day.

Tumble dryer: possible, with care

Fibre can go in the tumble dryer, always on a low-temperature programme. A trick that works well: put two or three clean tennis balls in the drum. As they bounce against the duvet during the cycle, they help break up clumps of fibre and the filling comes out noticeably fluffier. Even so, check the inside when it's finished: it often needs a little extra time in the air to dry completely.

what not to do

the four mistakes that ruin a comforter

Practically every duvet that loses its loft too soon does so for one of these four reasons.

common mistakes and what they cause
Mistake What it causes
Using fabric softener It coats the fibre, makes it clump and reduces its warmth
Washing it squashed Incomplete rinsing and detergent residue that stiffens the filling
Storing it damp A musty smell and a risk of mould inside
Hanging it wet from one point The seams stretch and the filling shifts downwards

Fabric softener, the most widespread mistake

It deserves a special mention because it's the most common and the most counterproductive. Fabric softener works by depositing a film on the fibres, and that's exactly what you don't want in a duvet: it reduces its ability to trap air and, with it, its ability to keep you warm. If you want to soften the water or neutralise odours, a splash of white vinegar in the rinse compartment does the job without leaving any residue.

Bleach and harsh stain removers are also best avoided: they weaken the fibre and, in the case of the printed comforter, dull the pigments.

routine

how often to wash it, and the two collections separately

How often depends on whether the textile is in direct contact with your skin or protected by another piece, and this is where the difference between the two collections becomes practical.

protected by the cover

Two or three times a year

Because it goes inside a duvet cover, the duvet hardly comes into contact with your skin. Washing it at the start and end of the season, plus once more if it gets heavy use, is enough. The cover, on the other hand, is washed as often as the sheets.

2–3
a year
30 ºC
maximum
no
fabric softener
in direct contact

Every four to six weeks

The comforter goes straight on the bed, without a cover, so it gets more use and needs washing more often. The process is the same, with one extra precaution: because it's printed, drying it in the shade is especially important to keep the colour vibrant.

4–6
weeks
30 ºC
maximum
shade
drying

Between washes: air it

A simple habit that stretches the time between washes quite a bit: take the comforter off the bed once a week and let it air for a while with the window open. It helps the moisture built up overnight evaporate and keeps that fresh feeling. At the end of the season, store it in a breathable fabric bag rather than a plastic vacuum bag, so the fibre keeps its loft.

Spanish design · Made in Spain

designed to be washed at home

Our duvets have a siliconised hollow fibre filling and a microfibre outer, a combination chosen precisely so they can be washed at home and regain their loft after washing. Available in 250 g, 450 g and all-seasons, in eight sizes from 80 cm to 200 cm beds. We design and make in Spain.

designed and made
in spain
siliconised hollow fibre
regains its loft
OEKO-TEX® certified
and washable at home

once the method is clear, washing is no longer a problem

In short: check that the filling is fibre and that the piece has room in the drum, wash at 30 ºC on a delicate programme with liquid detergent and no fabric softener, and give the drying all the time it needs, laid out flat and shaken often. With that routine, a good duvet keeps its loft and warmth for longer.

discover our duvets →
frequently asked questions

frequently asked questions

Can you wash a comforter in your home washing machine?
If the filling is fibre, yes. You need a washing machine with enough capacity for the piece to move freely (around 8 kg for medium sizes and 9 or 10 kg for large ones), a delicate programme and a maximum of 30 ºC. For natural down, professional cleaning is preferable, because incomplete drying makes it clump permanently.
What temperature should you wash a comforter at?
30 ºC at most. That temperature cleans a household textile properly and protects both the structure of the hollow fibre and the pigments of the print. If you need a deeper clean, it's more effective to wash at 30 ºC and follow up with a long spell of air drying than to push the temperature up.
Why shouldn't you use fabric softener on a comforter?
Because it works by depositing a film on the fibres, and that reduces their ability to trap air, which is exactly what makes a filling warm. The result is a flatter, less warm filling. If you want to soften the water or neutralise odours, a splash of white vinegar in the rinse compartment does the job without leaving any residue.
How do you dry a comforter so it doesn't clump?
Hang it laid out flat, never from a single point, in a well-ventilated, shady spot, and shake it every few hours to redistribute the filling. If you use a tumble dryer, choose a low-temperature programme and add two or three clean tennis balls to the drum: they help break up clumps of fibre and the result is fluffier.
How often should you wash a comforter?
It depends on whether it's protected or not. A duvet goes inside its cover and hardly touches your skin, so washing it two or three times a year is enough, usually at the start and end of the season. A printed comforter is used directly on the bed, without a cover, so it's best to wash it every four to six weeks.
What do I do if my comforter doesn't fit in the washing machine?
Before turning to the dry cleaner's, try a self-service launderette: their large-capacity machines can handle the whole wash in one go. What you should avoid is forcing the piece into a small washing machine, because when it's squashed the water can't circulate, the rinse is incomplete and detergent residue stiffens the filling.